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Pricing: TCT is considering new orders for 2026. Thanx Thom...
Custom Painting/Weathering/Installation/Repair Services:
Note: All brass, plastic & cast models have their own characteristics as with their owners; each is different from the next. Therefore I don't have standard block pricing. Time & materials are my standard.
PRICING: ThomsCustomTrains is a premium service. Anything less is just not good enough! Time spent is the commodity.
Hourly services are $45.00 on a flat general work performed. Cleaning, paint striping, decaling, weighting, wiring, re-motoring, re-gearing, kit bashing, weathering, building or rebuilding to fit parts etc. No block prices for whole work, all model by model estimates. Estimates are determined & based on thought work required to complete a model to an original design & barring any unforeseen problems or set backs. An up front first, half payment established upon before any work begins. This is to buy any needed parts or supplies and to show an mutual respect and seriousness for both of our comment to completing this project. Note as an average most full rebuilds run around 40-60 hours.
NOTE: AN ESTIMATE IS AN ESTIMATE. Sometimes Murphy’s Law likes to help too. Honestly, this is a premium personal custom work. I have valued customers & want good repeaters, so I DO MY BEST. DCC is a very unforgiving technology, not like DC. Shorts & binds are the criminals not me... Locomotives that ran ok with dc may not work at all well with dcc...FYI. Trouble shooting, can be very time consuming and frustrating. Patience & Perseverance from both parties is required to achieve a top quality and solid price justification. (meaning, someone hurrying just to keep the hours down usually results in poor quality and workmanship). (why pay to do the work twice)!. I strive to do it right the FIRST time...
I’ m one of the few modelers who believes all brass models should always be painted, out of the box & run on the layout. I also believe that weathering improves the realism in a model and reveals details that otherwise get overlooked. I prefer to use Floquil & Scale coat paints for brass & Floquil for plastics. Solvent & oil based paints are what I know. Honestly, I prefer not to use water based paints but I will, if you prefer. Though solvents are becoming a thing of the past I know...
Brass models require more attention in preparation before painting. The preparation of the model is the most important & usually the most time consuming part of the project. My preferred method for painting & upgrading a brass model is to:
Complete all mechanical work if needed & test run--Disassemble the whole model--grit blast to remove old paint or clear finish and to rough up surface--Clean with toothbrush using soap and water, then sonic clean—Re-solder any poor joints, re-clean--Reassemble sub assemblies--Prime model if needed (some do)--Bake dry--Paint and bake dry–Mask and repeat for second color etc.–Clear finish--Decal model--Clear finish again air dry–flat finish air dry--Re-assemble model--Install decoder, lights, details, figures etc--Test run–Weather to desired level--custom program each model--final test run on a layout--Let sit for a while to cure out any final clear coats--pack/ship & enjoy!
Plastic models require less paint preparation but, still need the same attention to details. I don't bake dry the newer plastics, I air dry the plastics. This can take up to 2 weeks for the solvents to cure out. With today’s plastic models, there can be a lot of details that need to be removed before painting, decaling & weathering depending on the paint & weather scheme in some cases. Glued parts maybe damaged or unusable and have to be replaced during the prepping process. Just a fact of modeling!
My services are best completed with lots of communications. An Idea photo supplied with a good written description or with a phone call or e-mails detailing what you're thinking helps us both understand what can be achieved. However! Almost all my customers just give me an Idea of what they're looking for & I "using my artist talents" come up with the rest. It seems to work well. In the end you are pleasantly surprised & I try to come up with a one off custom model that no one or very few have. The process is easily done. The work is meticulous & can be tedious. The results are enjoyment for both of us. I do a premium quality work. If it's not right you don't get it until it is. Let's face it; having a custom model running thru a custom scene on a custom layout is pretty cool!!!
DCC SERVICE:
Adding a multi-function decoder with lighting & sound functions is greatly encouraged for better response and realism. I can install any decoder type in any locomotive provided there’s enough room to physically fit it in. Brass models have to be prepared inside the superstructure prior to decoder/speaker installations. I recommend in most steam units the decoder be placed in the tender. In some plastic diesel models only certain types of decoders will fit with minimal work to either the shell or the frame. Others might still need a lot of modifying to fit everything or a “b” unit or box car be permanently or have quick disconnect connecters to complete. The smaller the model the tougher it gets to fit. Sounds can be downloaded to only writable decoders. I can do most current ones now. My top recommendations are to use either Tsunami, Loksound, Zimo or TCS for the best results offering the most versatility & best reliability. We want to build a model not maintain it!
TROUBLE SHOOTING SERVICE:
In order to operate today’s DCC sound locomotives with & smooth running mechanisms efficiently. The entire rolling chassis needs to be free from any binds or contacts which could cause shorts. This is an absolute must. DCC does not care how much money you spent on your brass locomotive to make it run. Brass locomotives are very highly crafted machines. To make a piece of fine art work well is an art unto it's self. This can be a very tedious & time consuming process. This is my least favorite part of the hobby but one I still dedicate all my talents too so your finish model runs the way it should.
WEIGHT SERVICE:
I recommend all powered locomotives have enough weight added for good adhesion which makes for a strong pulling unit. The two ways I prefer are soft lead & Cerrabin “moldable metal”. Both can be time consuming to install, but the results are always worth your investment on the rails. Older units require this. Newer unit’s today-not so much. Both steam & diesel locomotives require balancing for best pulling results.
PRICING: again
Hourly services are $45.00 on a flat general work performed. Cleaning, paint striping, decaling, weighting, wiring, re-motoring, re-gearing, kit bashing, weathering, building or rebuilding to fit parts etc. No block prices for whole work, all model by model estimates. Estimates are determined & based on thought work required to complete a model to an original design & barring any unforeseen problems or set backs. An up front first, half payment established upon before any work begins. This is to buy any needed parts or supplies and to show an mutual respect and seriousness for both of our comment to completing this project. NOTE: AN ESTIMATE IS AN ESTIMATE. Sometimes Murphy’s Law likes to help too. Honestly, this is a premium personal custom work. I have valued customers & want good repeaters, so I DO MY BEST. DCC is a very unforgiving technology, not like DC. Shorts & binds are the criminals not me...
PAYMENT POLICY:
Payments are expected within 7 days after the work is completed & final pics are accepted. I accept payments by debit cards or credit cards thru Pay Pal & US postal money orders or certified bank checks & cash still works for me. I appreciate your business very much and want good repeats.
SHIPPING POLCY:
U.S. Postal Service is my preferred method unless another carrier is requested. Packing & shipping are at costs only. I don't add extra fees. Insurance is a customer option. With today's monkeys in the fast paced world; Insurance is always a good benefit, just good luck with collecting from them if needed.
I will ship anywhere in the world!
Note: All brass, plastic & cast models have their own characteristics as with their owners; each is different from the next. Therefore I don't have standard block pricing. Time & materials are my standard.
PRICING: ThomsCustomTrains is a premium service. Anything less is just not good enough! Time spent is the commodity.
Hourly services are $45.00 on a flat general work performed. Cleaning, paint striping, decaling, weighting, wiring, re-motoring, re-gearing, kit bashing, weathering, building or rebuilding to fit parts etc. No block prices for whole work, all model by model estimates. Estimates are determined & based on thought work required to complete a model to an original design & barring any unforeseen problems or set backs. An up front first, half payment established upon before any work begins. This is to buy any needed parts or supplies and to show an mutual respect and seriousness for both of our comment to completing this project. Note as an average most full rebuilds run around 40-60 hours.
NOTE: AN ESTIMATE IS AN ESTIMATE. Sometimes Murphy’s Law likes to help too. Honestly, this is a premium personal custom work. I have valued customers & want good repeaters, so I DO MY BEST. DCC is a very unforgiving technology, not like DC. Shorts & binds are the criminals not me... Locomotives that ran ok with dc may not work at all well with dcc...FYI. Trouble shooting, can be very time consuming and frustrating. Patience & Perseverance from both parties is required to achieve a top quality and solid price justification. (meaning, someone hurrying just to keep the hours down usually results in poor quality and workmanship). (why pay to do the work twice)!. I strive to do it right the FIRST time...
I’ m one of the few modelers who believes all brass models should always be painted, out of the box & run on the layout. I also believe that weathering improves the realism in a model and reveals details that otherwise get overlooked. I prefer to use Floquil & Scale coat paints for brass & Floquil for plastics. Solvent & oil based paints are what I know. Honestly, I prefer not to use water based paints but I will, if you prefer. Though solvents are becoming a thing of the past I know...
Brass models require more attention in preparation before painting. The preparation of the model is the most important & usually the most time consuming part of the project. My preferred method for painting & upgrading a brass model is to:
Complete all mechanical work if needed & test run--Disassemble the whole model--grit blast to remove old paint or clear finish and to rough up surface--Clean with toothbrush using soap and water, then sonic clean—Re-solder any poor joints, re-clean--Reassemble sub assemblies--Prime model if needed (some do)--Bake dry--Paint and bake dry–Mask and repeat for second color etc.–Clear finish--Decal model--Clear finish again air dry–flat finish air dry--Re-assemble model--Install decoder, lights, details, figures etc--Test run–Weather to desired level--custom program each model--final test run on a layout--Let sit for a while to cure out any final clear coats--pack/ship & enjoy!
Plastic models require less paint preparation but, still need the same attention to details. I don't bake dry the newer plastics, I air dry the plastics. This can take up to 2 weeks for the solvents to cure out. With today’s plastic models, there can be a lot of details that need to be removed before painting, decaling & weathering depending on the paint & weather scheme in some cases. Glued parts maybe damaged or unusable and have to be replaced during the prepping process. Just a fact of modeling!
My services are best completed with lots of communications. An Idea photo supplied with a good written description or with a phone call or e-mails detailing what you're thinking helps us both understand what can be achieved. However! Almost all my customers just give me an Idea of what they're looking for & I "using my artist talents" come up with the rest. It seems to work well. In the end you are pleasantly surprised & I try to come up with a one off custom model that no one or very few have. The process is easily done. The work is meticulous & can be tedious. The results are enjoyment for both of us. I do a premium quality work. If it's not right you don't get it until it is. Let's face it; having a custom model running thru a custom scene on a custom layout is pretty cool!!!
DCC SERVICE:
Adding a multi-function decoder with lighting & sound functions is greatly encouraged for better response and realism. I can install any decoder type in any locomotive provided there’s enough room to physically fit it in. Brass models have to be prepared inside the superstructure prior to decoder/speaker installations. I recommend in most steam units the decoder be placed in the tender. In some plastic diesel models only certain types of decoders will fit with minimal work to either the shell or the frame. Others might still need a lot of modifying to fit everything or a “b” unit or box car be permanently or have quick disconnect connecters to complete. The smaller the model the tougher it gets to fit. Sounds can be downloaded to only writable decoders. I can do most current ones now. My top recommendations are to use either Tsunami, Loksound, Zimo or TCS for the best results offering the most versatility & best reliability. We want to build a model not maintain it!
TROUBLE SHOOTING SERVICE:
In order to operate today’s DCC sound locomotives with & smooth running mechanisms efficiently. The entire rolling chassis needs to be free from any binds or contacts which could cause shorts. This is an absolute must. DCC does not care how much money you spent on your brass locomotive to make it run. Brass locomotives are very highly crafted machines. To make a piece of fine art work well is an art unto it's self. This can be a very tedious & time consuming process. This is my least favorite part of the hobby but one I still dedicate all my talents too so your finish model runs the way it should.
WEIGHT SERVICE:
I recommend all powered locomotives have enough weight added for good adhesion which makes for a strong pulling unit. The two ways I prefer are soft lead & Cerrabin “moldable metal”. Both can be time consuming to install, but the results are always worth your investment on the rails. Older units require this. Newer unit’s today-not so much. Both steam & diesel locomotives require balancing for best pulling results.
PRICING: again
Hourly services are $45.00 on a flat general work performed. Cleaning, paint striping, decaling, weighting, wiring, re-motoring, re-gearing, kit bashing, weathering, building or rebuilding to fit parts etc. No block prices for whole work, all model by model estimates. Estimates are determined & based on thought work required to complete a model to an original design & barring any unforeseen problems or set backs. An up front first, half payment established upon before any work begins. This is to buy any needed parts or supplies and to show an mutual respect and seriousness for both of our comment to completing this project. NOTE: AN ESTIMATE IS AN ESTIMATE. Sometimes Murphy’s Law likes to help too. Honestly, this is a premium personal custom work. I have valued customers & want good repeaters, so I DO MY BEST. DCC is a very unforgiving technology, not like DC. Shorts & binds are the criminals not me...
PAYMENT POLICY:
Payments are expected within 7 days after the work is completed & final pics are accepted. I accept payments by debit cards or credit cards thru Pay Pal & US postal money orders or certified bank checks & cash still works for me. I appreciate your business very much and want good repeats.
SHIPPING POLCY:
U.S. Postal Service is my preferred method unless another carrier is requested. Packing & shipping are at costs only. I don't add extra fees. Insurance is a customer option. With today's monkeys in the fast paced world; Insurance is always a good benefit, just good luck with collecting from them if needed.
I will ship anywhere in the world!
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