Tips & How TO's: New Pictorial Series -

Working with brass engines:

HO scale Brass OMI Milw. rd. EF Electric center bobtail, optional pans. notice: Full Dcc rebuild, paint & letter E 34 C. >

​The first step on any model is to do an over all inspection on condition & needed work to achieve.  What's broken, what's missing, what's needed to be added.

​The next step is to determine the minimum operating radius and smallest switch size to track through without binding / derailing.

​The next step is to determine what parts are to be ordered.

Check Solder Joints for pitting, oxidation & fit

On Electric Boxcab locomotives, something to consider is the> possibility of long wires might interfere with the next model when coupled.  It also becomes a snagging hazard as well.  I cut these back if needed.  My goal is proper operation always.

Trimmed Catenary Electrical Cables

Overall Condition Inspection of Model

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<Next the process is to inspect overall solder joints for cleaning, pitting and solid connection.  Pryor to painting.  Now is the time to check all solder joints for secure proper fit, loose connections and proper alignment of all details and appliances.  If model is to be lighted, make sure all widows, side joints and body mounts are tight and flush.  This ensures no light leaks.  

Repair or Modify any Protruding Parts

Inspect Frame, motor, driveline

Inspect Superstructure for Fit n Finish

  ↑  Next remove the frame from the superstructure to inspect the        Also inspection of inside the cab for sharp brass pins which ↑​         frame, motor and drive line along with the cab for fit n finish.          can short out any electronics or cut wires that may be there.
                                                             Note all the oxidized solder blobs throughout model

Remove Motor & Inspect Use with Decoder also check trucks for articulation and clearances

Next remove the motor, mounts and drive shafts.  Close inspection of the drive shafts with the ball joints for cracks and make sure they are secure and tight on shaft.  Super glue works well for me at this point if balls are plastic and Loctite if metal or brass.  Make sure they are clean of burrs.  Also inspecting of the trucks for articulation and pivoting and that no clearance issues exist.  Trim, shim or modify any obstructions at this point is a good idea.
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Inspect Frame for any Solder Blobs or Loose parts, also you can add parts or piping now

Inspection of Both Top and Bottom of Frame and any sharp pins

Next remove the trucks and thoroughly inspect the underside of the frame for any missing or loose piping or appliances. Don't forget to minimize all solder blobs which can diminish paint finish (this is the difference between professional and amateur work).

Next I like to closely inspect the trucks for smooth ease of rolling back n fourth. Inspect that the trucks sit even and flat on track.                                               >

Inspect trucks for smooth rolling, level & spring movement

While you're at this stage it's a good idea to inspect the trucks for solder blobs and possibly adding of any extra details, like < brake piping or rerailers etc.

 ↓  Next, check each truck for smooth roll and square and spring function by lightly pressing with finger on center pivot of truck. ↓

Lightly Press Down on Center Truck Pivot

Then release and repeat several times

Next closer inspection to determine if the all wheel pickups have proper straight tension and alignment on ​BACK ​of wheel contact.  I like to straighten the wires or even consider replacement (also make sure they are only long enough to touch the inside of the nearer part of the tire and not the gearbox or spoke wheel). I also like to sand down the cup parting nip so it doesn't catch any loose wires.​ ↓

Close Inspection of both pickups for proper tension and alignment is a must

Close Inspection of both gearbox assemblies for cracks, roll etc. is a must

Inspect the bearings and gears for burrs and smooth operation

It helps to properly tape the treads prior to painting

  ↑ Next prior to taping the treads for painting, inspect the plating to see if it's not too worn.  This will help with proper electrical p/u. ↑

Careful Inspection of each journal box, back plate and spring

Next one of the most important park of any proper re-build is to carefully inspect each of the operating journals for ease of sliding up and down and check for broken mounting pins.  A lot of quick poor repairs (cheating) are made by directly soldering the back plate to the journal box. They usually aren't soldered properly because they deform the spring from the heat.  Also this method hinders the ease of sliding/alignment of the axle, not to mention sometimes the plate is soldered directly to the frame which doesn't allow the box to slide at all. (Not proper).

very important to inspect trucks for square and solder blobs

Carefully Inspect each journal for broken mounting pins

Next I like to grit blast the brass to remove all tiny scratches, excess solder, check for fit n finish and double check any solder blobs.

Once all brass prepping is complete, prime all parts and Inspect for solder blobs and fit n finish prior to color painting

  ↓ Nothing beats a smooth straight paint line.  This can be time consuming so take your time.  Great painters use good quality tape.

Proper Masking for each color can be time consuming, so take your time

Remember different layers of color can change the shade of a top color

When Painting Pantographs Take Time to Remove all Solder Blobs

Also after painting, make sure everything works properly

When patience and care are taken, brass can be very rewarding. Especially with adding full Dcc sound, lights & details. 
​ Hope this helps.                                                                                                                                                  Thanx Thom...